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CLUTE'S 

KttUal Measilrsinent Systein 



^^isrxD :^E2-2" TO 



SGienilllc Dress Guuing. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 






INITED STATES OP AMERICA. 



** CLUTE'5— ** 

flctiJal Measilrement System 



-.zi.3^nD- 



Key to Scientific Dress Mal(ino, 



NO PASTEBOARD CHARTS, SLIPS, SCALES 
OR PROPORTIONATE MEASURES, 

Bilt Siniplij Kpplii Ttiese Instrilctions to a Tailor's Sqilare. 

Ir^valuablE ° to ° PpaEtiEal ° (SuttEFS; 

5Ewii/g Sirb and the Fjome BFE33makEF. 



DEyOTED TO THE BEST INTEREST OF LADIES' m CHILDRENS' 
WEARING APPAREL AND DRESS JVIAKING IN GENERAL. 



^ E -2- ^»^ 

J. REDFIELD CLUTE, 

MINNBAl^OLTS, MINN. 






S%^ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year of 1891 by J. Redfield Clute, in the office 
of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 






1 have long seen the want of a system of dress cutting that you might call a 
common sense system, that is, one that combines simplicity, variety and perfectness. 
The reason all other systems have been so hard to learn, isthatthey are too compli- 
cated, even the inventors and their instructors connot give pupils a clear and com- 
prehensive reason for making any dots or lines. They say to make it as the system 
tells you and it will come out all right, and that is all the satisfaction you get. But 
if you study my system you will see that from years of experience and constant 
study that I have at last invented a system, that is not only perfect in measure- 
ment, but is so simple that any pupil can see and understand the reason for making 
every dot and line. I am aware that you are presented with so many so-called 
tailor systems of actual measurement that you now ask what is actual measure- 
ment. In answer I will say that it is Not a system that uses slips, proportioned 
scales or pasteboard charts, but simply one that cuts according to the measures 
taken in whatever part of the form you are drafting. 

There are always two ways to do everything, a right way and a wrong way, the 
right way is always the easier, the same as it is always easier to tell the truth 
than a falsehood; this brings to our mind that when a child we told our parents a 
falsehood, and that one caused us to tell others, so it is in a poor system of dress 
cutting, they average the measures and smooth it over to make it look easy to you, 
but to have perfect results you must have a solid foundation to work on. so have a 
system of actual measurement that will always tell the truth. 

J. REDFIELD CLUTE. 



Clute's Actum, Measurkiment System. 



OUR SYSTEM. 

The cheapest is not always that which costs the least money: but in an article 
of this kind, it is the one from which you derive the most benefit. 

We do not claim that the price of our system is less than all others, and we 
know that it is not the highest price, but we have placed the pi-ice within the reach 
of all who wish to advance in the Art of Dress Cutting and have the very best- 

For ill our system we have the foundation and the root of all principles ot 
cutting, and still is so simple that a child can learn it. Dress-makers are readily see- 
ing that the Tailors' Actual Measurement System is the only perfect one. Don't mis- 
take a Tailor's Division System for an Actual Measurement one, for the Division 
System only gives you a proportionate pattern of whatever measure you are draft- 
ing — the same as Charts, and Charts, if not, should be a thiiiji: of tlie past in this pro- 
gressive age. The successful Modiste is the out-reaching and ever-looking one — for 
something new and an improvement in her method of cutting, and not the one who 
gets in an old rut and stays there, and is satisfied to use some old style system with- 
out the latest improvements ( that was used before our forefathers), and says she 
is perfectly pleased with her system, and that she never has any trouble, and gives 
perfect satisfaction to her customers (and still she knows this is not true), I would say 
to such a one, you had better hang up in your shop the old motto that "we are never 
too old to learn." 

NEVER GET DISCOURAGED. 

Some ladies get discouraged easily, and think they ought to learn this system 
sooner than they do. It is not hard to learn; on the other hand, it is very simple - 
others have learned, why can't you? It is no reason that you can't learn, simply 
because it takes you a little longer than your neighbor; as a rule the one who spends 
the most time in learning, retains it longest. 

Don't iR'ive it up, for if you have any trouble, all you have to do is to write tons 
and we are always willing to do all we can to help you make a success. Study this 
system thoroughly and for your reward you will be a most perfect and practical 
cutter. 

A REQUEST. 

We kindly ask everj^ person that buys this system, to forward your full name 
and address to us as soon as you purchase it, vvhether the agent you buy of says 
he will do it or not Take this upon yourself to do and you will find it to your 
interest. J. R. CLUTE, Minneapolis, Minn. 

THE SQUARE AND CURVE RULE- 

Clute's graduated square and curve rule is especially adapted for these instruc- 
tions as it has -g, ^ and A inches, also the A inches are numbered same as the whole 
inches. Use the | inches wherever you want to use only half of a measure — for 
example, say your width of back is 13 inches, in making a draft you only use half 
of this, and instead of looking for 6^ inches, look for 13 in the A inches. 

For the benefit of those not accustomed to using a square, I would say study it 



Clutk's AcTUAi, Mkasukkmkn'I' Svstk.m. 



thoroughly, that yon may know what a ^, \ oi' A inch is, before studying the instruc- 
tions for cutting- You will notice that the curve rule (which goes with every 
square) on one side is marked rifjlif side and the other If/f side. Bear this in mind, 
as you are referred to it in your instructions. 

HOW TO STUDY. 

Any one can be a practical cutter, if you thoroughly study these instructions, 
and by having some one read them to you, you can learn as well as if you took oral 
instructions. Be sure and number each line and dot as you make them, just as 
they are numbered in the cuts (until you have learned to make your drafts without 
instructions). This will save you looking at the cuts to find where a certain line 
or dot is. 

Lesirn how to draw tlie back first; next the front, and then the sleeve. Each 
dot and line is numbered, which is the name of that dot or line. Make your dots 
and lines consecutively as they are numbered. For example, the first thing you do 
is to make line 1, next line 2, next dot 3 and then dot 4, and so on until you have 
finished your pattern. In this Avay you will find it very simple and easy to learn. 
Whenever you are instructed to make a dot or line a certain number of inches, 
you may know that it is always that distance, unless you are afterward instructed 
differently. 

SUPPOSITION MEASURES. 



1. 


Neck, 13. 


2. 


Height of scye, 10- 


3. 


Bust, 36. 


4. 


Waist, 241 


5. 


Front No. 1, 19A. 


6. 


Front No. 2, 13A. 


7. 


Width of chest, 13. 


8. 


Underarm, 8. 


16. 


Arms eye No. 1, 14. 


17. 


Arms eye No- 2, 10. 


18. 


Shoulder to elbow, 13A, 


19. 


Shoulder to wrist, 23. 



WAIST. 

9. 
10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 
14. 
15. 

SLEEVE. 
20. 

21. 
22. 
23. 

SKIRT. 



Length ot shoulder, f)k 
Width of back, 13. 
Length of back, 16. 
Back shoulder height, 14f. 
Whole shoulder height, 33. 
Height of darts, SA. 
Hip, 40. 



Elbow, 10. 

Inside length, 17. 

Hand, S. 

Centre of back to elbow, 18. 



24. Front. 



25. Left side. 



26. Risht side. 



27. Back. 



HOW TO TAKE MEASURES. 

After you understand this system of cutting you will see that the fit of your 
garment depends wholly on the measure you take. Never take a measure hurriedly, 
for with an imperfect measure you cannot expect a perfect fit. Pay close attention 
to your instructions and you will not find it difficult to take a measure. First, tie 
quite a good size cord around the waist, very tight; push it down as low as you 
wish the waist to come. If it will not stay where you want it in front and back, 



Clute's Actual Measurement Systej 



place a piii in it to bold it down. The measures to be taken are as above given. 
Take all lengths of waist to lower part of cord. 

Take. Neck Pleasure inside of collar, loose. 

Height of Scye is taken from the crossing of two lines, one under, and one in 
front of the arm size, to center of neck in back; take this measure tight. The 
square can be used nicely in taking this measure by placing the long part of the 
square snug up under the arm and let the short end of square pass up in front of 
arm; then take this measure from inside corner of square. 

Bust Measure is taken not tight or too loose, but just an easy measure. Stand 
to the bark of your customer, and place the tape measure over the fuUestpart of the 
bust, close up under the arms, over the fullest part of shoulder blades in back. 

Waist Measure. Take quite tight unless you wish the garment to fit loose. 
Front No. 1. Take from prominent bone in back of neck to wai.st cord in 
center of front. 

Front No. 2. Take from waist cord in center of front, to a point at neck as 
high or low as you wish the neck of the dress to come. 

Width of Chest. Take above the fullest part of bust, from one arm hole to the 
other, or as wide or narrow as you want the dress. 

Under Arm. Place your tape measure close up under the arm and take as long 
as you want the waist under the arm. It should come to the top of hips. 

Length of Shouhler. Place a pin wherever you want the lowest part of shoulder 
to come, then measure lA inches from prominent bone in back of neck toward the 
pin; now from this point measure to the pin. * 

Width of Back. Take from one arm-hole to the other, over the fullest part of 
shoulder-blades. The width of back can be made wide or narrow, according to 
your taste or style. 

Length of Back. Take from prominent bone in back of neck to lower part of 
waist cord 

Back Slioulder Height is taken from the point you have taken the length of 
back to the piu you have placed in the shoulder. 

Whok^ Shoulder Heiglit is the continuation of the back shoulder height over 
the front shoulder to the waist cord in center of front- 

Height of Darts. Take the front dart as high as you want above the waist cord, 
make back dart i inch higher. 

Hip Measure. Take 5 inches below waist cord in front and back, slightly raised 
at each side- 

Arm.s Eye No. 1. Place ta"pe measure close up under the arm, and take this 
measure quite tight over the pin placed in shoulder. 

Arms Eye No. ^. Place tape measure under the arm, same as for arms eye 
No. 1, and take this over fleshy part of arm quite tight, 3 to 4 inches below lower 
point of shoulder. 

Shoulder to Elbow. Take from pin placed in shoulder to the point of elbow. 

Shoulder to Wrist is the continuation of shoulder to elbow to bone in wrist, 
or length desired. To take the two last measures place the hand on hips. 



Clute's Actual Measurement System. 



BACK DIAGRAM. 



Elbow. Place the tape measure around the prominent part of elbow, with the 
arm straight, then benil the arm; this will give you the proper size of elbow, so that 
your sleeve will not bind when it is made. 

Inside Leiigtli. Take from where the sleeve joins the waist, down the inside 
of arm, opposite where you took shoulder to wrist measure. 

Hand Measure. Take over largest part of hand. If you want a very tight fit- 
ting sleeve take the wrist measure too. 

Center of Back to Elbow. Raise the arm so that you could draw a horizontal 
line across the back and arm, bend the elbow, and take this measure from central 
seam of back to the elbow. 

Skirt Measure. Take whatever length is desired- 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE BACK. 

Line 1. Is drawn li inches from edge 

of paper. 

Line 2. Same as draft, square with 
Line 1. 

Dot 3. Is lA inches from Line 1. (See 
Note 1. ) 

Dot 4. Is one half width of back 
measure from Line 1. 

Dot 5. Is g inch from Line 2. 

Dot 6. Is length of back measure 
from Dot 5. 

Dot 7. Is 5 inches from Dot 6. 

Line 8. Square with Line 2 from 
Dot 4. 

Dot ■ 9. Is 4 inches from Dot 4. 

Dot Id. Is length of back measure 
from Dot 4. (See Note 2.) 

Dot 11. Is the under arm measure 
from Dot 10. 

Line 12. Is drawn from Dot 3 through 
Dot 9. 

Dot 13. Is \ inch more than the 
length of shoulder measure from Dot 3. 

Line 14. Is drawn from Dot 6 to 
Dot 10. 

Dot 15. Is I inch from Dot 6. 

Dot 16. Is 1^ inches from Dot 15. 
(See Note 3. ) 
Dot 17. Is I inch from Dot 16. 

Dot 18. . Is 21 inches from Dot 17. 
(See Note 4.) 

Dot 19. Is back shoulder height mea- 
sure from Dot 15- 

Line 20. Draw this line from Dot 15 




Clute's Actual Measurement System. 



to Line 1, 4 inches from Dot 5. 

Dot 21. Is i inch more from Dot 7 
than Dot 16 is from Dot 6. 

Dot 22. Is I inch more from Dot 7 
than Dot IS is from Dot 6. 

Lines 23, 24, 25 and 26. Draw these 
lines straight, as seen in draft. 

Line 27. Place Letter A at Dot 3, 
right side of curve rule up. (See A ote 5.) 

Line 28. Place Letter B at Dot 18, 
right side of curve rule up. Draw this 
line through Dot 11. 

Line 29. Place Letter A at Dot 19^ 
right side of cui've rule up. Draw this 



line to Line 28, 1^^ inches from Dot 11. 
(See Note 6.) 

Dot 30. Is one third the entire length 
of Line 29. (See Note 7.) 

Line BI. Place Letter E at Dot 30, 
right side of curve rule up; draw to 
Dot 16. 

Line 82. Before moving the rule 
place one finger on the rule opposite 
Dot 11. Move bottom of rule to Dot 17 
and draw same as draft. 



Line 38. Draw from 
with a slight curve. 



uot 3 to Dot 5 



FRONT DIAGRAM. 

J L 




Clute's Actual Measurement System. 



INSTRUCTIONS 

Lines 1 and 2. Same as 1 and 2 in 
back draft. 

Dot 3. Is A of clie.st measure fr'om 
top of Line I- 

Dot 4. Ls \ inch less than A the dis- 
tance from Line 1 to Dot 3. 

Dot 5. Place l"i inches at the top of 
Line 1, and make this dot heip;ht of scye 
measure- See Note 8. 

Dot 6. Is under arm measure from 
Dot 5. 

Line 7. Draw same as di-aft straight 
from Dot 5.. 

Dot 8. Place the width of back 
measure in the halt inches (or half of 
your back in whole inches) at Dot 5, 
and make this dot at half of your bust 
measure (in whole inches). 

Dot y. Is 24 inches from Dot 8. See 
Note 9. 

Line 10- Draw same as draft. 

Line 11. Draw same as draft, square 
with Line 2, through Dot 8. 

Line 12. Draw square with Line 7 
from Dot 9. at least 5 inches past Line 10. 

Line 13. Draw square with Line 2 
from Dot 3 to Line 7. 

Dot 14. Is li inch from Dot 3. 

Dot 15. Is U inch from Line 7. 

Line 16. Draw from Dot 4 through 
Dot 14, same as draft. 

Dot IT. Is length ot shoulder meas- 
ure from Dot 4. 

Dot 18. Place 14 inches at Dot 4 and 
make this dot front No. 1, measure. 
See Note 10. 

Dot 19. Place back shoulder height 
at Dot 18, and make this dot whole 
shoulder height. (See Note 11.) (Use 
tape measure. ) 

Line 20. Draw same as draft. 

Dot 21. Measure Line 28 in back, 



FOR THE FRONT. 

draft from Dot 18 to arm-hole and make 
this the same distance from Line 10, I 
inch from line 11, same as draft. 

Dot 22. Is 4 inch more than Front 
No. 2. Measure from Dot 18. 

Line 23. Use neck curve, draw from 
Dot 4 to Dot 22. 

Line 24. Place Letter J at Dot 21 
(left side of curve rule up), draw to 
Line 11, midway from Line 7 to Line 10. 

Liue 25. Place Letter A at Dot 4, 
draw to Dot 19, same as you did in back 
draft. (See Note 5.) 

Line 26. Place Letter H at Dot Si 
(right side of curve rule up), draw to 
Dot 21. 

Line 27. Let front arm curve touch 
Line 7, Dot 15 and Dot 19 all at the 
same time, draw from Dot 19 to Line 7. 

Dot 28. This dot is made in order to 
find out how much there is to be take)i 
up in darts. First measure the distance 
in back draft from Dot 15 to Dot 16, say 
it is \[ inches, place this measure at Dot 
17 and continue to measure to Dot 18, 
say this is 4 inches, now place this 
measure at Dot 18 in front draft and 
make Dot 28 at waist measure in half 
inches or half the waist in whole inches, 
now measure the distivnce from Dot 28 
to Line 11, this will give you the amount 
you are to take up in darts. 

Dot 29. Is i inch from Dot 18. Now 
deduct this ^ inch from the amount 
you are to take up in darts and divide 
the balance in two darts. Say you have 
3 inches left, this will give you 14 inches 
for each dart. 

Dot 30. Is 14 inches fi-om Dot 29. 
(See Note 12.) 

Line 31. Draw square with Line 1 
from Dot 30, same as draft- (See Note 
13.) 

Dot 32- Is the distance of your trout 
dart from Dot 30. 



Clute's Actual Measurement System. 



Dot 33. Is the center from Dot 39 to 
Dot 32. 

Dot 34. Is I inch from Dot 32. (See 
Note 14.) 

Dot 35. Is the distance of back dart 
from Dot 34. 

Dot 36. Is the center fi-om Dots 34 
to 35. 

Line 37. Draw square with Line 7 
through Dot 33, same as draft. 

Line 3S. Same as Line 37, through 
Dot 36. (See Note 16.) 

Dot 39. Is height of dart measure 
from Dot 33- 

Dot 40. Is A inch higher than Dot 39. 

Dot 41. Is 5 inches from Dot 33. 

Dots 42 and 43. Are i inch from 
Dot 41. 

Dot 44. Is 5 inches from Dot 36. 

Dots 45 and 46. Are A inch from 
Dot 44. 

Lines 47, 48, 49 and 50. Are drawn 
straight, same as draft. 

Dot 51. Is 5 inches from Dot IS. 



SLEEVE 



Line 52. Is drawn same as draft. 

Dot 53. Is 3 inches from Line 10. 

Dot 54. Is f inches from Dot 53. 

Dot 55. Is 1 j. inches from Dot 53. 

Dot 56. Is 3 inches from Line 10. 

Lot 57. Is 14 inches from Dot 56. 

Line 58- Place Letter K at Dot 40 
left side of curve rule up. Draw same 
as draft. 

Line 59- Draw same as Line 58. 

Line 60. Draw same as Line 58, right 
side of curve rule up. 

Line 61. Draw same as Line 60. 

Line 62. Place Letter K at junction 
of Lines 10 and 11, left side of curve 
rule up, and draw same as draft- 
Line 63. Draw same as Line 62. 

Line 64. Place Letter J at junction 
of Lines 10 and 12, right side of curve 
rule up; draw same as draft. 

Line 65. Place Letter B at Dot 9, 
left side of curve rule up; draw same as 
draft. 

Line 66. Draw from Dot 29 to Line 
1, 2 inches from Dot 5. (See Note 15.) 

DIAGRAM. 




INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SLEEVE. 



To draw this sleeve use arms' eye 
measure No. I. Remember you draft 
both the upper and under halves of the 
sleeve at the same time. 

Commence by drawing — 

Line 1. IMnches from edge of paper, 
the length of shoulder to wrist meas- 
ure. Make a dot at the top of this line; 



call this Dot A, and one at the bottom ; 
call this Dot B. 

Line 2. Draw square with Line 1 
from Dot A- 

Dot 8. Is 2 inches less than A the 
arm's eye measure from Dot A. 

Dot 4. Is shoulder to elbow measure 
from Dot A. 



Clute's Actual Measurkmf.ni- Svstkm. 



Dot 5. Is li inches from Dot B. 

Dot G. Is inside measure from Dot 5. 

Dot 7. Place widtli of Ijack measure 
in lialf inches, or half the width of back 
in whole inches, at Dot 4, and make 
this dot center ot back to elbow measure 
in the whole inches. 

Line S. Draw square with Line 1 
from Dot 7. 

Dot 9. Is 2 inches less than one-half 
the arms' eye measure from Dot 7. 

Dot 10. Is one inch more than one- 
halt the arms' eye measure from Dot 7. 

Line 11. Draw square with Line 1 
from Dot 4. 

Dot 12. Is 2 inches from Dot 4. 

Dot 13. Is 1 inch less than one-half 
the elbow measure from Dot 12. 

Dot 14. Is 1 inch more than one-half 
the elbow measure from Dot 12. 

Line 15. Draw square with Line 1 
from Dot B. 



Line 16. Is 1 inch more than one-half 
the hand measure from Dot 5 to Line 15. 

Dot 17. Is 1 inch less tluui one-half 
the hand measure from Dot 5. 

Line 18 Place Letter K at Dot 14, 
left side of curve rule up, draw to the 
junction of Lines 15 and 1(). 

Lines 19 and 20. Draw with the same 
curve as Line 18. .same as draft. 

Line 21. Place Lefer K at Uot 12, 
with right side of curve rule up. 

Line 22. Place Letter K at Dot 10, 
right side of curve rule up. 

Line 23. Draw same as Line 22. 

Line 24. Place Letter H at Dot 3, 
left side of curve rule u^), draw from 
Dot 3 to Dot 10. 

Line 25. Place Letter H at Dot 3, 
right side of curve rule up, draw from 
Dot 3 to Dot 6. 

Line 26. Place Letter L at Dot 6, 
right side of curve rule up, draw from 
Dot 6 to Dot 9. 



FOR CHILD'S DRAFT. 

TO DRAFT THE BACK. 

Make dot 3, 1^ inch from line 1. Make dot 9, 3 inches from dot 4. You don't 
need lines 31 and 32. Balance of pattern make same as for an adult. 

TO DRAFT THE FRONT. 

Draw the front same as for an adult, except there are no darts and dot 9 should 
be only 2 inches from dot 8. 

TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE. 

Make dot 5, 1 inch from dot B; dot 10, i arms' eye from dot 7; dot 12. li inches 
from dot 4. Balance of sleeve same as for an adult. 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR A PLAIN THREE GORED SKIRT. 

FOR FRONT GORE. 

Draw lines 1 and 2 same as in back draft: make dot 3, or line 2, .^ of your 
waist measure; make dot 4, 1 inch from dot 3 towards line 1; make a 2 inch dart in 
center from line 1 to dot 4; make dart 4i inches long; make dot 5, on line 1. A inch 
from line 2; draw a curved line from dot 4 to dot 5; make dot 6, or line 1 whatever 
length you want the gore, from dot 5; make dot 7, 12 inches from dot 6 tor width of 
gore at bottom, draw line 8 curved at top from dot 4 to dot 7. 

FOR SIDE GORE. 

Draw same as front gore, except make a dot on line 2, 1 inch from line 1, and 



12 Clute's Actual Mf.asurement System. 



draw a curved line from this dot to line 1, 4i iuches below dot 6, and place the dart 
in the center between this new dot and dot 4. 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR A FIVE CxORED SKIRT. 

FOR FRONT GORE. 

Draw same as front gore of the three gored skirt, except it is only three inches 
wide at the top and no dart, and 6 inches wide at the bottom. 

SIDE GORES. 

Both side g( res are drawn alike and drawn like the front gore, except it is Si 
inches wide at top; then make a dot 3 inch from line 1 on line 2; draw a curved line 
from this dot to line 1, 41 inches below line 2; curve the gores slightly at the top, 
same as three gored skirt and make them nine inches wide at bottom. 

NOTES. 

Note 1. When your neck is 14 inches or more, make dot 3, If inches from line 1. 

Note 2. After you understand cutting thoroughly, you will see that dot 10 
should be made in accordance to the amount of slope your customer has from the 
under arm seam to the central seam of the back. Your supposition measure, when 
you make a draft, will give you f inch slope, but if you need more you can make it 
whatever you want to. For example, suppose you want | inch slope, then make a 
dot the diflfereiice between § and 'I inch above dot 10, then line 14 will be drawn 
from your new dot 10 instead of the one made first. To find out how much slope 
a lady has, you can lay your tape measure straight across the back at waist, then 
push the waist cord down as far as you can with your finger, then by your eye you 
can tell how much slope to give her. 

Note 3. To make dot 16, gives you the width of central piece of back at waist. 
This width varies from 1 inch to If inches, in proportion to the size of waist and 
style. 

Note 4. To make dot 18, gives you the width of the side body piece at wai.-t. 
You are instructed to make this 2^ inches, but it is left with you to make this what- 
ever width you choose, in proportion to both the size of your waist and the width 
from dot 15 to 16. For example, if you only wanted to make the width from dot 
15 to 16, 1 inch wide for the same size waist, you would make the side body piece 
wider, say 3 inches. 

Note 5. You can give as much or little curve to the shoulder as you like, 
according to the amount of hollowness your customer has in shouldei*. 

Note 6. Line 29 can be drawn at any point on line 27 between dot 11 and 2 
iuches above dot 11. It is usually drawn I5 inches from dot 11, but must never 
come below dot 11- 

Note 7- Dot 30 can be made anywhere on line 29, according to your taste. 

Note 8. The If inches you deduct from the scye measure is the amount of your 
neck in the back after the seam is taken up. 

Note 9. To make dot 9. gives you the width of the under arm gore. This you 
can make as wide as you please, in proportion to the size of the bust. For a child 
it should only be 2 inches wide. 



Clute's Actuai, Measurement System. 13 



Note Id. Another way to make dot 18 is to deduct tlie amount used in the 
neck in tlie back, .say li inches trora front No. 1, and make this dot the bahmce of 
your measure from dot 4, on line 1. 

Note 11- To make dot U*, gives you the height of shoulder in tlie front, it 
nuiy come above or below dot 17. To explain why you use this measure in this 
way, first remember that this measure is the entire amount from center of waist 
in back to center of waist in front. You have already used the l)ack sbouhler 
height out of this, so you only use the balance of it to get the height of shoulder 
n front. 

Note 12. Dot 30 gives you the distance from dots 29 to 30. This distance can 
be made inore or less, according to your taste. 

Note 13. Wlienever dot 18 is only f inch or less from dot 6, you need not draw 
line 31, but place your darts on line 20. 

Note 14. This gives you the distance between your darts, which can be made 
more or less, according to your taste. 

Note 15. To draw line fi gives you a French swell bust. If you think your 
customer needs more swell, make a dot A inch out from line 1, and 2 inches below 
dot 5, then draw line 66 to this dot, and also draw a line trora this new dot to dot 
22. Also, if your customer is vei-y hollow chested, make a dot A inch from dot 22 
on line 23. then draw a line from the top of your first line 66 to this last dot. This 
will take out the fullness that always occurs. 

Note 16. The dai'ts can be sloped back by sloping lines 37 and 38. 

Note 17. In tracing, if line 14 slopes very much, it will make line 32 shorter 
than line 31, in that case trace line 32 A inch beyond dot 30, then arms eye to line 28. 

TESTING MEASURES. 

Be sure and test each measure before cutting your patterns; also, test your hip 
measure; measure across both back pieces 5 inches below the waist line; say this is 
5| inches; place this measure at dot 51 in the front, and continue across both pieces 
of the front, by measuring from dot 51 to 42. from 43 to 45, from 46 to 55, from 54 
to line 62, 1 inch lielow dot 57; if this does not come what half your hip measure is, 
make dots 57 and 55 more or less distance from lines 11 and 12, according to the 
deficiency. 

Also, test the arm's eye of both front and back; the two together should measure 
about li to 2 inches more than your arm's eye No. 1, and the arm's eye of the 
sleeve pattern should measure at least 2 inches more than the arm's eye of the waist 
pattern. 

TRACING PATTERNS ON LINING. 

THE FRONT. 

Trace the front first, in all patterns allow seams extra from your tracing, 
except the arm's eye and neck, which you must cut on the line you have traced. 
Lay the patterns on the linings crossways the cloth. Commence by tracing the 
outside lines of darts, then the waist line points from dot 2\) to 30, then to 35. then 



14 Clute's Actual Measurement System. 

at the junction of lines 10 and 12. Now at bottom of line 52, in front, to dot 29, up 
line 66 to line 1, to dot 22, line 23 to dot 4, line 25 to dot 19, around arm size from 
dot 19 to dot 9, line 65 to line 63, then line 63. 

THE UNDER ARM GORE. 

Trace the waist line first, then 'line 64 to line 12, up line 12 to dot 9, line 26 to 
dot 21, line 24 to line 11, line 11 to line 62, then line 62. 

THE CENTRAL PIECE OP BACK. 

Trace the waist line first, then line 26 to dot 15, line 20 to line 1, line 1 to dot 
5, line 33 to dot 3, line 27 to dot 19, line 29 to dot 30, line 31 to dot 16, then line 25. 

THE SIDE BODY PIECE OF BACK. 

Trace the waist line first, then line 24 to dot 17. line 32 to dot 30 (see note 17), 
line ^9 to line 2S, line 28 to dot 18, then line 23. 

THE UPPER HALF OF SLEEVE. 

First trace the elbow points, then line 16, lines 18 and 22, lines 20 and 21, lines 

24 and 25. 

THE UNDER HALF OF SLEEVE. 

Trace elbow points, then line 16 to dot 17, lines 19 and 28, lines 20 and 21, then 
line 26. 

BASTING. 
The more basting you put in a garment the easier it will be for you to make it. 
First ^et your waist lines even, then baste from waist line up, and then from waist 
line down. It is a good plan to baste across the front from dot 15 to line 1. When 
you trace your pattern you can trace a line across here, then you will have that to 
go by; also baste across the back pieces about where dot 11 comes. 

Ill putting the shoulder together hold the back shoulder full to the front; never 
stretch the front. In basting your pieces together be very careful to baste in the 
marks of the tracing wheel. 

In putting tlie sleeve in of course it has to be fitted to the arms size of the 
waist, but as a rule the inside seam of the sleeve should come about where dot 15 
in the front comes. 

DRESSMAKERS. 
Are made special inducements to handle and furnish their apprentices with our 
system. You will find it to your interest, as it requires none of your time to teach it. 

Address 

J. R. CLUTF, 

Minneapolis, Minn. 
qUESTIONS OF INQUIRY. 
We are always ready and willing to answer all questions pertaining to cutting, 
basting, putting together, making, styles, etc- 

To ladies wlio have purchused this system: If ever you have any trouble in 
drawing any pattern, make a draft of the pattern the best you can, write and tell 
us your trouble, send it to us, and we will correct your mistake, so that you will 
have no further trouble with that style of draft. A stamped, addressed envelope 
must be forwarded tor the reply; also, if you send us a pattern to be criticised, 
send an extra 2 cent stamp for the return of pattern. 



Ci.UTE's Ac'I-UAI. Ml'-.ASUUKMKNT SvSTEM. I5 

MONEY TO BE 3IAI)E. 

ARE YOU IN IT? 

Ladies and (rentleinen — You can have einplctyment at Iioiiie. 

You can be a local agent, you can be a State agent, or you can 1)0 a traveling 
agent. 

There is nothing more honorable, more pleasant or nioi-e profitable than selling 
our system: everybody that has it is deliglited. 

It sells rapidly because it is cheap, useful, practical, and a great benefit to the 
l)urchaser. 

It is self-instructive. No agent need give oral instructions, but wliouever you are 
asked to, you are ex])ected to receive extra pay. 
We offer our agents the most liberal terms. 

Prompt attention to their orders, and careful protection to their rights. 
We always give all the assistance possible to help them make a success, as our 
vast experience enables us to do. 

If you are courteous, persevering, industrious and honest, yon are sure of a 
success, 

A successful business can be followed either with or without canvassing. 
Address J. R. CLUTE; 

Minneapolis, Minn. 
RETAIL PRICE LIST. 

Clute's Actual Measurement System Book $5-00 

Clute's Graduated Square and Curve Rule ■ . ■ 2.50 

The above Book, Square and Curve Rule, complete 7.50 

Oral Instructions on the Plain Basque . ■ 2.50 

Oral Instructions in the Complete Course, including seven dif- 
ferent styles of Basques and twelve styles of Sleeves, Coats, 
Jackets, Gored Wrappers, Three Gored and Five Gored Bell- 
shape Skirt, different style Collars, etc 7.50 

Anyone sending by mail for our Book, or Book and Square complete, will 
receive drafts of everything we teach, with instructions how to cut them. 

Tracing Wheels, Tape Measures, and all kinds of dress-makers' furnishings 
always on hand- 

MEASURE BOOKS. 

In another page in this book you will find a sample page of our measure books, 
which no practical cutter or amateur dre,5S-maker can afford to be without. Each 
hach book contains one hundred measure sheets printed o»i fine lieavy paper, and only 
cost you 50 cents, which is only A a cent a measure. Who would not pay that, 
rather than write the names of each measure down? Also this book affords you a 
record of your measures, and is nicely covered with iron check-board. 

Address 

J. R. CIJJTE, 

Minneapolis, Minn. 



< 



i6 



Clute's Actual Measurement System. 



Sample Page oi Oyr Measure books, 



Date 

Address 


Kaine 




Price Tohefi 

To he finished...... 


tied 




...tityle 












WAIST. 


No. 


SLEEVE. 


No. 


Neck 




Arms Tilve No 1 




Height of Scye 




Arms Eve No 2 




Bust 




Shoulder to Elbow. 




Waist 




Shoulder to Wrist 




Front No. 1 -. 




Elbow 

Inside length ; 

Hand 

Centre of Back to Elbow 




Front No. 2 






Width of Chest 






TTndpr A rnn 














Width of Back 




SKIRT. 




F ono-fh nf Mwpk 




Front 








Left side 








Right side 








Back 




Hip 









LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



014 061 908 5 f^ 



i>Ao 






Hollinger Corp. 
pH8.5 



